If you ever want to get your pedals off without a pipe extension, grease the threads. Pedal removal just became real easy.
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Monday, April 19, 2010
Thursday, April 8, 2010
3 Piece Crank Install 6
Grease the threads of the second spindle bolt and tighten the second crank arm in place. After the arm is secure remove the spindle bolt and check to make sure there is a small gap between the spindle bolt washer and the spindle face. If there is not a gap the spindle bolt will bottom against the spindle and the crank arms will not securely tighten and your cranks will become damaged.
3 Piece Crank Install 5
Push the chain wheel bolt towards the chain wheel in the same direction you apply force to the crank arm when pedaling. After the chain wheel bolt is resting against the chain wheel tighten it with your allen key. Doing this before you tighten the spindle bolts will prevent any slipping at this interface during your first few cranks and makes sure the chain wheel bolt is seated properly.
3 Piece Crank Install 4
3 Piece Crank Install 3
Check to make sure the crank arm clears the frame. Add more spacers between the bearing and the sprocket if needed. If you add spacers check your chain alignment. If the amount of spacers you have added to the spindle push the chain too far out you can add a spacer in between your freewheel and hub or your cog if you run a cassette.
3 Piece Crank Install 2
3 Piece Crank Install 1
Apply anti-seize onto one side of the spindle and press the drive side crank arm on as mush as you can by hand. Grease the threads of a spindle bolt, screw it into the spindle and tighten the arm completely. You may have to use the crank arm install tool supplied with your cranks if the spindle bolt will not reach the threads of the spindle initially on it's own.
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