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Thursday, February 25, 2010

New SNAP Product Has Arrived

Just received a Series II stem and new matching tensioners drilled out as the stem for clean and uniform style. Included with the tensioners is a shorter set of screws for fine tuning against any size drop-out your frame may have. Also received is a 19mm bored gear. I have always preferred SNAP gears over any other gear due to the exact tolerances, pure roundness, longevity of material and the absence of a sprocket adapter. All of these factors together eliminate tight spots from your chain and improve chain life. SNAP has different bore sizes available so you do not have to run an adapter with any size crank spinlde you may have. Stay tuned for install tips using this gear and the other SNAP product coming soon!

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Tube and Tire Install 4

Now the tire should be seated correctly. Pump up the tube to the specs on the tire and look at all those labels and valve line up.

Tube and Tire Install 3

Now run your hand along the other side of the tire pushing the bead onto the rim. Afterwards pump about half of the air pressure allowed for your tire into the tube. Push the tire onto the rim with a small amount of force where it may be bulging. The second picture shows the bead slightly out away from the rim where I applied pressure to seat it correctly. The third photo shows a correctly seated bead with no bulging.

Tube and Tire Install 2

Insert the tube into the tire with the valve in the middle of a label. Insert the valve into the valve hole in the rim and set one side of the tire onto the rim.

Tube and Tire Install 1

Things you need for tube and tire install. Wheel, tube, tire, pump and powder. Pump up the tube slightly and apply powder to the surface of the tube. The powder on the tube allows the tube to move more freely while it is being pumped up preventing pinches and bunching.

Wheel Tips 4

Use duct tape to hold each end of the rim strip in place where they meet at the valve hole in the rim. This adds further protection against slipping strips and gives a touch of protection to the tube valve when it is inserted into the valve hole. Use a pen to make a hole in the duct tape and lay the tape against the edge of the valve hole for that added tube valve protection. Now there is a whole lot when it comes to building wheels right. Spoke length, tensioning, using spoke prep. and so on. If you have more technical questions you may contact Dave Fisher (bike master) by linking to him within my followers section here on my blog page. He can build you a set no sweat if needed.

Wheel Tips 3

Off to rim strips. Use the fabric strips, they offer more protection, will not rot or snap and sit better on the rim. Under the rim strip you should see spokes that run the entire length of the nipple. If your spokes do not run the full length of the nipple you are riding on hollow spokes. The third picture points to the area that will be hollow if your spoke does not insert into the nipple fully. Now imagine all your power and force from big hits being transferred into hollow nipples. Not a good way to have your wheels set up.

Wheel Tips 2

First off there are labels to keep straight. Not really a safety issue but a visual indication that who built your wheels really knows their stuff. Rim labels should face the same way and hub labels should be set equally and in line with the rim labels.

Wheel Tips 1

A new set of wheels arrived from Dave Fisher, wheel build pro. One time I had the thought that I could build a set of wheels so I gave it a shot. Laced them up, installed them, rode them and shortly after they blew up. I determined that building wheels myself is not really the safest way to go. After a couple of sets of wheels built up by Dave and some e-mail correspondence complete with wheel build lessons, I have come to learn just how much is really needed for a safe and efficient set of wheels.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

New Supercross 2010 SLT forks came in today

I have used SX forks for some time now. I was excited to see a new model released on their website and wanted a set right away. The finish is great. The legs are larger and taper at the dropouts which feature cutouts as the SX LT version forks. Included is the proprietary top cap that threads into the welded in star nut. The cap has room for the extra steerer-tube you may have on top of your stem when adjustments are made. Rust proofed, heat treated and lighter than the previous version. Best of all, no weight limit. Check the photo of the internal spiral fluted steerer-tube, added for strength. Hit the Supercross banner near the top of my blog to go to their site and check out the details. You will see these forks used during the headset and front wheel installation guides coming soon.

Friday, February 5, 2010

European Bottom Bracket Installation Step 14

Now you should have your bottom bracket cups snug and spaced correctly.
Check in soon for the next phase I will guide you through, sprocket and crank arm installation.
Please ask any and all questions. Thank you.

In the meantime check out this picture of a set of cranks I have. Late 90's Kastan cranks. Beefy.

European Bottom Bracket Pushed Bearings

Here you can see that the right cup has bearings that have been pushed out. This is a result of too much spacing in between the bearings during installation. Bearing push creates offsets resulting in a poor overall finish and potential crank arm spacing issues throwing off chain alignment.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 13

Now. Very important. Use the correct tool here. A wrench that fits is key. It is worth buying a wrench to install the cups. You will not get the ugly pliers mark as one of these cups was shown to have. More importantly, you will not round out the cups. One day you will need to get these cups out. You want it to be easy, keeping the cups nice is the easy key. Tighten snug, do not over apply force. Do not use a lever and acknowledge how long the wrench handle is resulting in the amount of overall force.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 12

Hand tighten the other cup until it is flush against the frame. Remember to take your time and check for cross threading.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 11

Slide in the crank spindle after applying a light coat of grease on it. Slide your spacer sleeve and any spacers that you proved to create the right fit during your fit check onto the spindle.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 10

Now install your first cup. This step should be messy with grease all over. The amount of grease you have applied should allow for the cup to be hand tightened until the cup is flush to the frame. Do not force it. If it feels wrong, it is wrong. The cup may have been offset and cross threading if it will not thread in easily. Start over, make sure you catch a good start in the threads, if you ever second guess things may be going wrong, assume they are. Threads can be damaged, forcing you to have the frame chased and lose valuable thread thickness in the process. You may have to use a wrench towards the end of hand tightening as the cup gets very close to final contact with the frame. However, the force applied should be very minimal. More of a finish with a wrench rather than a tightening with a wrench.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 9

Here I have found the correct spacing. Cups are resting flush against the BB shell.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 8

As the last sleeve was too small add a few spacers and check fit again. Remember to push the cups against the sleeve and spacers to get a true mount reference. Here, with spacers added, the spacing is now too far apart. If this spacing was used, the bearings inside the cups would get pushed outwards during installation. More than likely the bearings would get pushed out in an uneven fashion, left and right sides, final fitting of crank arms and crank spacing will be thrown off plum ending in a bad overall finish. Take your time here and really work at getting this right. Working hard during this phase will prove to be time well spent as the final fit will be correct and the need to dissemble and reassemble over and over until spacing is right will be eliminated.

European Bottom Bracket Install

Tune in tonight for the wrap up.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 7

Now take a breather. The next few steps will make for a sure shot fit, right the first time. Install your cups and a spacer you choose on the crank spindle. Place the spindle with cups pressed against the sleeve, over the underside of the bottom bracket shell of the frame. You can see here this sleeve allows the cups to be in a position too far inward, evident by the cups resting on the shell. This install would cause the bearings to bind when the crank arms are installed as there will be no force from spindle sleeve against the bearings in the opposite direction.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 6

Time to grease the cups.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 5

Be sure to apply grease to the outside of the shell where the BB cup will meet the frame. This will keep away squeaky noises typically caused by metal on metal rub. If you have ever had that squeak, squeak and more squeak when you crank this is likely the source.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 4

Apply grease to the threads of the BB shell.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 3

You will need grease. I have had this tube for 8 years. It has been used to build about 50 bikes. Plenty left.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 2

Euro BB cups, spacers and sleeve spacers. A couple of sleeves should be in the box with new cranks. If not, your local shop will have sleeves you can purchase. This set is used, one of the cups was hacked with pliers by the last owner. Never use pliers. I have an original sleeve, the grey one. I also have here a sleeve used on my last frame, the green one. The green one is a different brand than the brand of bottom bracket I am installing, it will still work great if needed despite brand. Sleeves come in different diameters so make sure you ask for the right size if you get one from your local shop. It is good to take your spindle down to the shop so they ensure you leave with the right size.

European Bottom Bracket Install Step 1

Euro BB, cleaned with a soft cloth. Use a cloth that will not leave lint behind. Never use a S.O.S. pad or steel wool to clean gunk out. It is much better to use a soft cloth and elbow grease to get particles out left behind form manufacture than any type of abrasive technique. You may also take your frame to a local shop to have it chased and faced if you think the BB shell is far too messy to clean up yourself. Many riders feel all frames should be chased and faced at the BB. That may very well be true. At times the paint/powder on a frame may cause the BB face to be out of plum. I have never had a frame chased or faced outside of what has been completed at the factory.

Thursday, February 4, 2010